Showing posts with label Stockholm Midnight Run. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stockholm Midnight Run. Show all posts

Saturday, 15 August 2015

DURCH DIESE HOHLE GASSE MUSS ER KOMMEN ...

Hammarby Sound at 4.45 am

Yesterday morning brought another "Early Birds"-event. This time it was not the sea gulls' shrieking that got me out of bed. "No!", it was something more subdued, but still annoying: an almost infrasonic, but at the same time persisting rumbling from a diesel engine, combined with diesel fumes mixing with the clean and healthy draft from the sea beneath my apartment.

When I got up to investigate, a marvelous golden view welcomed me outside. The sun was about to rise, but still too lazy to appear above the horizon; backlighting instead a sky full of clouds, with an unearthly, almost Martian timbre. Forgetting about the noise and the fumes, I just closed my bedroom window and got back to sleep.

As the morning went on, I thought nought more about this incident, since all kinds of noise from the seaway beneath me are reaching me throughout the day. But suddenly, around 10 am, a super loud radio channel opened up, surpassing all the usual sounds I have been getting used to. When I rushed out to the balcony to see what was going on, I discovered the view you can look at below.

Transport Authority Barge

The barge squatting smack below my balcony was of course known to me. I had seen it cruising off and on for two months now, but never before found it nestling at my place. We are looking at exploration activities connected with a planned new subway line. The barge is housing huge drilling machines, which sample the ground under the sea. But why just below my balcony?

The answer is obvious. Look at the map showing the planned lay-out. A new subway station will be hollowed out from the rocks just below my apartment and the trains will arrive through a tunnel under the canal!

The planned new subway line

Now back to the intrusive radio music: Looking closer at the people moving around the barge, I could discern a nice young lady, sitting in the white cabin yonder. Apparently a girlfriend, visiting one of the young muscular laborers on board. To keep her occupied and content, whilst having to concentrate on their drilling, the youngsters probably thought some entertainment was in order. No harm in that, if it weren't necessary to put the loudspeaker on full blast, in order to outperform the drilling noise!

I had had enough and rushed down to the quay to admonish the youngsters. It took me some screaming and waving to get their attention, since they had their hearing protectors on! Eventually they took notice of me and, to my satisfaction, had the good manners to shut down the radio. Thereafter, relative calm was again reigning over the canal, at least if you count shrill drilling noise as calm. But we have to accept this type of noise, in the name of progress! ;–)

Day after, on saturday, no barge noise to report about; working week was over. But that didn't mean all systems clear for this sedentary old man. After an eventless day, suddenly, Hammarby Sjöstad started to get agitated again. Just about the time when I took this romantic picture of the last sun rays caressing the roof tops in the distance (imagining myself as a latter day Caspar David Friedrich – our great Swedish painter – at his most pictorial), an enormous bass tone suddenly erupted over the calm waters, soon followed by a host of shrill overtones, coming from an oversized and maladjusted loudspeaker.

Sunset over Hammarby Sound à la Caspar David Friedrich

Ready to contact the police immediately, I rushed down to the quay again to investigate the source of this cacophony. A young couple was seen leaning on the guide rails over the water, admiring some goings-on at the opposite quay. I approached them and started to complain about the noise, soliciting support for civic action to come to grips with it. Instead, I was met be smiling faces, showing themselves to be quite content with the ruckus. It was time for the yearly "Midnight Run", they told me, which would start, not at midnight, but just 15 minutes onwards. 

And so it was to be. Just as the last rays of sun were bidding us "Goodbye!", the loudspeakers started to blast at even greater volume, a voice was trying to out-scream the ruckus, and a horde of motion-aficionados started to run along the quay. The noising and running went on for more than an hour, but this time there was no way of escaping it. Shutting all the windows and putting cotton in my ears did not do much to suppress the general uproar. I just had to content myself with the insight that it would all be over by midnight and, after all, that it was for the general good, if not for my own!

The Midnight Run has begun!

You may well ask what all this has to do with the title of this post? A lot, it turns out. The citation in the title comes from the play "Wilhelm Tell" by Friedrich von Schiller. It refers to the hollow way to Küssnacht, along which Wilhelm Tell awaits his oppressor Gessler, in order to kill him off with his cross-bow. In English translation:

Scene III.
A hollow way near Küssnacht, over which travelers are passing.– The whole scene is surrounded by rocks, one of which is seen jutting forwards, and covered with bushes. 
Enter Tell with his cross-bow

Tell.
Thro' this deep hollow passage must he come,
There leads no other way to Küssnacht.

As soon as I realized that there is a plan to hollow out a tunnel underneath Hammarby Canal (passing smack under my apartment at that), this citation came to mind immediately. I have a sound grounding in German literature after all, how could I not think about Willhelm Tell in this context?

Wilhelm Tell, painting by Ferdinand Hodler
But there is more to it. There slumbers a wildman deep within all of us, does it not? I am peaceful myself, but I have to admit that unwarranted noise raises my hackles. Especially if there is nothing I can do about it. Whenever this happens, a vision keeps invading my mind: like a latter day Wilhelm Tell, I see myself as hugging a cross-bow, firing quarrel after quarrel to kill off the malfeasants. I am ashamed of this vision, but, at the same time, relieved to realize that it helps me to re-gain my inner equilibrium! Amazing, isn't it?


Sunday, 18 August 2013

MIDNIGHT FRENZY


Summer is approaching its end, but the "Latin" enthusiasm of Swedes is not yet abating. Have a look at the picture above, taken yesterday around 11 pm. You may believe the greenery along the quay to be a new park in the making. But, "No!", you are in fact seeing some thirtyfive thousand people rushing by during the annual Midnight Run around the Southern Island of Stockholm. 


True to the time-honored tradition of being exuberant in Summertime, this extraordinary event is accompanied by an enormous ruckus, with many more spectators than runners, filling the Island to the brim. Long after the Run is finished, the air is vibrating with the sound of festive ululations, keeping us more sedate citizens awake until early morning. 


This year I decided to take the devil by the horns and spend the evening and night with preparing a blog post, instead of throwing around in bed in a vain attempt to get some sleep. This turned out to the best for all parties, don't you think, and I may repeat the exercise another year. Better to use the event for some creative output than to keep getting angry at the outbursts of the "Summer Swedes".


Soon enough everyone will reconvert to their more natural "Nordic" temperament and cool restraint will again be reigning over Hammarby Sound. When I went out to the balcony early this morning, bleary eyed from keeping awake, I was very astonished to see that the cleaning crew had already been out in the wee hours: not a single sign of the night's excesses was visible along the quay opposite my apartment. And the morning sun greeted me with abandon, as if telling me that Summer was far from over.


But let's face it! We live in the North after all. With September approaching, it is best to start freshening up the odd pullover and warmer trouser. But, "Wait!", don't forget that there is one last occasion to indulge in exuberant "Summerism". This time I myself will be the cause of it. Next Saturday I will invite family to the annual big event in Hammarby Sjöstad, the Emil Ems Crayfish Party


You didn't know that us Swedes love to eat crayfish in August? Well, this is a time-honored tradition, ever since the days when the fishing season for this delicacy began first in August. We will indulge in those red little creatures, swimming in their tasty dill sauce and certainly won't forget to welcome each of them with high spirits or, rather, with strong spirits from glassy containers. 

Having said this, we should not forget to thank these little creeps every time we take a sip and sing a song to go along with it. Without them, no doubt, there won't be any strong spirit to consume in Sweden. Back in the beginning of the Roaring Twenties, the abolitionist movement in Sweden was in full swing, and a referendum on alcohol prohibition was held in 1922. The opponents won only with a slight margin, and only one single picture helped to sway the undecided. It was produced by Albert Engström and the connection to the crayfish is obvious, once you consider its message: "Kräftor kräva dess drycker" (Without strong spirits no crayfish!).


So, thanks to Albert, there will yet be a Crayfish Party next Saturday. To act as a warming up for the big event, permit me to present my personal version of the eternal truth: